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Goats Don't ShaveCold process soap making, melt and pour And Rebatching soap - easy!

Cold process soap:

The type of soap my great-grandmother made is called "Cold" Processes of soap (commonly called "CP" soap). It is formed by the combination of fatty acids (oils) and sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) together. Fatty acids can be almost any oil - from beef tallow to olive oil to hemp oil. The combinations for your own personal recipe are endless.

Soapmaking process of cold is a combination of art and science. The condensed version of what type of soap making is that there is a certain proportion of lye (sodium hydroxide) and water to fatty acids that forms a chemical reaction called "saponifaction." During the saponification oils and mix lye and soap making - the process takes about six weeks to complete fully. Soap, to harden and dry before they can be used safely.

Soapmaking process requires the use of cold detergent (you can not buy anywhere more) and use of safety equipment such as goggles and gloves. Please do not try to make soap cold without seeking the method thoroughly. Cold process soap is known for its hard, long-lasting quality. According to the oils used, the bar can have great lather (coconut oil is excellent lathering properties), be incredibly mild (olive oil is known for her gentle qualities) or be very moisturizing (with the addition of oils, such as shea and cocoa butter or hemp oil).

Advice

  • Using a blender, rather than rubber mixing utensils can achieve much faster track.
  • Measure your oil in advance to get things done more efficiently.
  • It is difficult to get the soap to trace, if the ingredients cool too. Both the lye / water mixture and the oils should not be less than 100 degrees Fahrenheit each when they are ready to be combined.
  • A large plastic bowl can also be used for laundry / water mixture, rather than glass.
  • Lye is extremely caustic. Do not make soap with children or animals present. Keep vinegar handy in case of exposure to wash the skin.

  • Always wear safety equipment - safety glasses and rubber gloves.

  • The soap mixture will always caustic as you pour into the mold. Handle with care.

Equipment You will need:

A container 4-6 mixing cup strong detergent for laundry and water. The container should be stainless steel, glass or heat resistant (212 degrees F) in plastic. It should not be aluminum or tin.

Another large heatproof container or jar (stainless steel, enamel or plastic work) to mix the soap

A large saucepan for heating oil

Heavy duty rubber spatula or wooden spoons for mixing

A good scale to measure ingredients (it's nice to have one another in ounces and grams, if possible)

A mold of soap - can be anything from a Rubbermaid (tm)-type container with a wooden tray or even a sturdy cardboard box. Use your imagination and be on the lookout for containers that make molds of Nice. It is advisable to use something flexible, so that the soap will come out easily with a little twist.

waxed paper or plastic bag to line the molds with to prevent leakage and deterioration of the mold itself. cardboard molds Replace when deformed to avoid deformed bars. We line our molds with wax paper for ease of "plopping" soaps.

Two thermometers for temperature monitoring of oils and lye solution - the type used for the manufacture of candy will work best (220 degrees F)

Rubber gloves and goggles

Melt and pour soaps:

Technically, all handmade soap is "glycerin soap. In many commercial soaps, all the extra glycerol (formed naturally by the methods of soap making cold process.

Posted on May 10, 2010.
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